BERRY FRUIT

Berry fruit have become popular in recent years because of the great taste and their proven health properties. Hence, this easily grown group of plants is a must for all gardens.

Nowadays gardens are smaller, and it is difficult to find space, but if you choose carefully they can fit. Most berry fruits produce on small, easily managed, plants. Brambles require a fence support.

Where to plant                                                

Choose a warm sunny position, sheltered from strong winds. Brambles (raspberries, boysenberries and blackberries) will grow in most soils.

Blueberries require a free draining but moist soil which is acidic (do not use lime or dolomite)

Strawberries require a free draining soil with lots of compost. They should not be grown in the same soil for more than two years consecutively.

In clay soils, raise planting beds and add lots of compost.

When to plant                                          

Brambles are sometimes available in winter as ‘bare root’ plants, but usually in late spring in pots.

Blueberries and grapes are available most of the year, but most commonly in summer.

Strawberries are available as ‘bare root’ plants in May—June, or as plants in punnets, or pots in spring.

How to plant

Refer to the article ‘How to Plant’.

Use ican Slow Food as a base fertiliser when planting, which will feed the plants as they need it for up to two years.

Mulching

This is a highly recommended practice as it suppresses weeds and conserves moisture in the soil. A layer of mulch, (compost, straw or similar) laid on the surface in October will prevent moisture loss and greatly benefit the plants.

Feeding

Berry fruit generally benefit from an annual dressing of lime or gypsum in August, followed by an application of ican Berry Food in September.

Note: Blueberries—Gypsum can be used on blueberries but do not use lime. Use an acid fertiliser such as ican Acid Food.

Watering                                                                  

Many berry fruit can withstand considerable dry periods, but watering will greatly improve the result.

Pests and diseases                                          

Although there are several pests and diseases that can attack berryfruit, they tend to be minor or easily controlled.

Raspberries, blueberries, and currants are relatively pest free, although raspberries will get botrytis (grey mould) if there is wet weather during picking.

Boysenberries and blackberries will also get botrytis in wet weather and may suffer from dry berry disease, caterpillars, and mites.

Gooseberries are attacked by powdery mildew although some varieties are somewhat resistant.

Strawberries suffer from a few soil fungal diseases, best avoided by not growing them in the same soil for more than two consecutive years. Other diseases of strawberries are leaf spot and botrytis (grey mould), in wet weather.

Grapes may suffer diseases and pests in wet or humid weather. The main ones which are likely to affect yield and quality are—botrytis (grey mould),and black spot.    

Pruning

Most berry fruits grow on bushes or vines. Hence there is little required to shaping.

Pruning for continuous crops, and to keep the bush or vine under control, requires some attention.

Raspberries are upright canes and fruit on new seasons growth which originates from the previous year’s new canes that have emerged from the soil. Therefore, in July, cut out all old canes which carried last season’s crop. These canes are distinguished from the one-year canes which you want to retain, by their grey colour, and usually by this time dry brittle wood. The canes to be retained tend to be light brown in colour and still very green and alive. These retained canes can then be shortened back to about two thirds their height.

Tying 5—6 canes together at the top is a common practice to help keep them upright when new growth starts in spring. The new canes for the following years crop will emerge and grow in late spring summer. They may require tying up for support.

Boysenberries and Blackberries have long limp canes and therefore require a fence or wire support. They fruit on new seasons growth which originates from vines grown the previous summer—autumn. In July prune out all old canes that carried fruit last season and tie up all the new canes that have been grown through the autumn.

Currants fruit on wood grown the previous season. Hence, in July prune out all old wood and shorten the bush by about one third.

Gooseberries fruit on spurs which last several years, but best fruit is on young ones, so cut out aged wood.

Blueberries fruit on wood grown the previous season. Therefore, to both keep the bush under control and to maintain good fruiting, prune the growth that has carried the crop as soon as it is picked, in summer. This encourages new growth from a lower level maintaining a compact bush. Water well in summer to encourage this new growth.

Grapes require a support which could be a fence or pergola. Initial pruning will be to establish the main leaders. Once this has been done, prune for fruiting as follows -

They fruit on new seasons growth. Hence in July, cut back to within one to two buds of the main leaders.